Brakes

The XJ sedans and coupes were released with a disc brake setup that was pretty common for high performance sedans at the time with one large exception. The rear brakes are inboard. The idea was to reduce unsprung weight at the wheels to improve handling and ride. The downsides are less airflow for brake cooling, difficult access for maintenance and the effect that hot brakes have on the differential output seals.

With the suspension removed during the IRS rebuild, I took the time to also rebuild the rear brakes

Hot brakes cause the diff seals to leak and create a mess like this

Decided to upgrade to EBC performance rotors versus the vented disc upgrade

Earlier suspensions have a different disc hole pattern. EBC did not have the correct ones, so a local machine shop drilled me correct holes

These are the bolt pattern dimensions on the XJC

BTW…the old rotors make great spring compressors

Also decided to rebuild the calipers. Here they are cleaned up……..

Rebuild kit. Used the sandpaper to clean out the piston bores and pistons. Blue threadlocker on all caliper bolts

Wasn’t satisfied with the way the stock pistons cleaned up so replaced with some new stainless ones

Used a piece of PVC pipe to help get the pistons past the new seals

Using EBC yellow stuff pads in front and back

The handbrake calipers had seized and could not hold the car’s weight anymore

All cleaned up, synthetic brake grease on the ratcheting mechanism and then re-assembled. Now the parking brake has no problems holding the car.

An area of frustration for me has been the brake fluid reservoir. I am on my third lid for this reservoir and now this one is leaking around the level switch. And the cork float….well, it no longer floats so the dash brake warning light is always on. I decided to retrofit with an aftermarket level switch.

After pulling off the metal holder and cork float this is what was left

Popped the level sensor off with a smaller screwdriver

Cut off the lip that held in the level sensor

Popped the float out of the housing to keep this as low profile as possible

Next cut off the plastic around the terminals so that they are exposed

Found a hole saw the same size as the level sensor base

To keep the top looking as clean as possible, I used my soldering iron to fuse the two plastic parts together from underneath

Looks clean in the engine bay and should be more reliable than the original float mechanism

It seems that for the cars from 5G1200 to end of production (5G1269), the change was made to the master cylinder that has the brake fluid reservoir mounted on top. Changing to the newer master cylinder might be the best solution.

Years ago, I discovered Tygon tubing. This tubing can be used with brake fluid and is great for seeing air bubbles when bleeding in a new master cylinder. Lesson learned – I recently bought some Tygon tubing that sweated out the brake fluid. Not all types of this tubing are created equal. Part #2375 is the correct tubing for brake fluid.

Recently decided to replace the master cylinder as it was leaking from the top connectors

…..which makes it easy to see air bubbles

Resources I have used for the brakes in addition to my regular go to’s:

Street Rodder May 1995 magazine

Great article on rebuilding the rear brakes. Can be found on Amazon or Ebay
Great write up by Chris Vine
Another good write up based on E-Type S3 brakes

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